BEAM is an acronym standing for :
Biology, Electronics, Aesthetics and Mechanics
Andy's Light-seeking Robots
DIY Robot :Solar-Bug (Fred)
Parts list : updated July 12, 2003
2 Transistors 2N3904 2 pager motors, high-efficient motor 1 solar panel, 3 volts
2 Transistors 2N3906 2 pager motor holders 1 capacitor, 2200uF, 16V
2 blinking LEDs (green or red) 2 resistors 3.3k Ohms, 1/4 watt, 5% copper wires & heat-shrink tubing
2 tantalum capacitors, 0.22uF 2 resistors 30k or 33k Ohms, 1/4 watt, 5%
It's only 11 items, you can handle it for sure !

Ray Diaz has this wonderful Fred FLED Photopopper Tutorial set up, job well done Ray :-)

Ben : "Put the meter on resistance measurement, put the FLED in a dark environment, and measure the resistance. Do this for all your FLEDs."

That's how I measure the resistance and balance the left and right eyes by using the same resistance Fleds. 
Poke two holes, just big enough for the leads to pass through. Insert the Fled onto the cap and put the cap back onto the film canister. Measure the resistance of the fleds and group them together with same/very close resistance.

My version on How to freeform it (without PCB) : This is the modified FLED solar-engine invented by Ben Hitchcock

1.  2N3904, bend the base lead (middle lead) toward you.
The labelled flat-side facing you and the leads are pointing downward.
2.  2N3906, bend the collector lead (the third lead) away.
The labelled flat-side facing you and the leads are pointing downward.
3.  solder them together face to face and clip off the excess leads
4.  bends the leads as shown
2N3904 :the collector upward
2N3906 : the base upward
5.  solder on the 3.3k Ohms resistor as shown, clip off the excess leads
6.  solder the 33k Ohms resistor (1 lead) onto the C3904 (collector of 2N3904) , clip off the excess leads

prepare a loop from C3904, which will be used for motor lead (C3904 loop)

7.  solder the 0.22uF (224) ceramic capacitor as shown (even down to 0.001uF (102) works. I'm using 0.022uF (223)  here)

With tantalum caps, marking ++ shows the positive lead, which should go with the 3.3K resistor. The negative lead goes with the 33K resistor as shown.

8.  bends the leads like that, it's the bug's left brain

E3904 goes to -ve lead of the caps

E3906 goes to +ve lead. Also make a loop for motor lead (E3906 loop)

9.  bends the leads like that, it's the bug's right brain
The leads of left brain bend one way, and the leads of right brain bend the other way.

E3904 goes to -ve lead of the caps
E3906 goes to +ve lead. Also make a loop for motor lead.

10.  prepare the motor and its holder

Use copper wires to pinch through the motor/holder, clamp the holder's legs onto the wires if you want, glue it perhaps.
Loop the wires to the +ve lead of the caps and do the same to the motor/holder the other side. Optimal length should be around 30mm from the tip of the motor to the +ve lead of the caps

11.  attach the copper-wires to the motors and capacitor simply looping to the +ve lead. Have to use lots of solder and/or glue to fasten it

(wires for solar-panel should be solder first)

12.  strip the coating of the capacitor, it's more cyber-look this way
13.  solder the motor leads to its brain
left motor blue wire go to E3906 loop of the left brain
left motor red wire go to C3904 loop of left brain

right motor blue wire go to C3904 loop of the right brain
right motor red wire go to E3906 loop of right brain

14.  solder the left brain, then the right brain

E3904 goes to -ve lead of the caps
E3906 goes to +ve lead. 

15.  solder the left-eye (FLED), then the right-eye as shown
16.  finally the solar panel

solder the leads and 
glue (or epoxy) the leads onto the panel
handle with care (don't pull the leads to test their strength) before the glue (epoxy) set in

17. This little Santa's helper : small C-clamp helps me to clamp down the wires, but I think any small clamp can do the trick.
solder the copper wires first onto the +ve & -ve pads
apply glue/epoxy onto the wires(in this case, brown & white)/solar panel,
leave them overnight (just to be sure), and carefully remove the C-clamp
18.  bend the + ve lead down as the front support

put on the shoes (heat-shrink tubing) and you're done !! 
handle the bug by its tail (main caps) or it eye (fled bulb, not the leads)

See, it's not that hard !!

Solar-panel soldering
I use " low temp" method to solder the wires on. 

 1. Heat up the soldering iron first until it can melt down the solder
 2. Unplug it and cool for 20 sec 
 3. lay the wires on top of pads( I use C-clamp to fix the position) 
 4. solder the wires onto the pads 
 5. check to see if wires can conduct electricity 
 6. if so, crazy-glue the wires onto the back of solar-panel 
 7. if not, clean the pads and re-solder it again (step 1 to 6) 
 8. don't pull the wires to test the soldering strength, a definitely " no-no " 
 9. after the glue set (5 min-overnight), remove the C-clamp 

Fred's Schematic
Tutorial on making the Homing Signal : 
Solar-powered light flashing beacon
Tutorial on making the bicore Head : 
Light Tracking Bicore Head

Tutorial on making Math's Lighthead2

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