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Ben : "Put the meter on resistance measurement, put the FLED in a dark
environment, and measure the resistance. Do this for all your FLEDs."
That's how I measure the resistance and balance the left and right eyes
by using the same resistance Fleds.
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| 2 Transistors 2N3904 | 2 pager motors, high-efficient motor | 1 solar panel, 3 volts |
| 2 Transistors 2N3906 | 2 pager motor holders | 1 capacitor, 2200uF, 16V |
| 2 blinking LEDs (green or red) | 2 resistors 3.3k Ohms, 1/4 watt, 5% | copper wires & heat-shrink tubing |
| 2 tantalum capacitors, 0.22uF | 2 resistors 30k or 33k Ohms, 1/4 watt, 5% |
Ray Diaz has this wonderful Fred
FLED Photopopper Tutorial set up, job well done Ray :-)
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Ben : "Put the meter on resistance measurement, put the FLED in a dark
environment, and measure the resistance. Do this for all your FLEDs."
That's how I measure the resistance and balance the left and right eyes
by using the same resistance Fleds.
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My version on How to freeform it (without PCB) : This is the modified FLED solar-engine invented by Ben Hitchcock
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1. 2N3904, bend the base lead (middle lead) toward you.
The labelled flat-side facing you and the leads are pointing downward. |
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2. 2N3906, bend the collector lead (the third lead) away.
The labelled flat-side facing you and the leads are pointing downward. |
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3. solder them together face to face and clip off the excess leads |
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4. bends the leads as shown
2N3904 :the collector upward 2N3906 : the base upward |
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5. solder on the 3.3k Ohms resistor as shown, clip off the excess leads |
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6. solder the 33k Ohms resistor (1 lead) onto the C3904 (collector
of 2N3904) , clip off the excess leads
prepare a loop from C3904, which will be used for motor lead (C3904 loop) |
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7. solder the 0.22uF (224) ceramic capacitor as shown (even down
to 0.001uF (102) works. I'm using 0.022uF (223) here)
With tantalum caps, marking ++ shows the positive lead, which should go with the 3.3K resistor. The negative lead goes with the 33K resistor as shown. |
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8. bends the leads like that, it's the bug's left brain
E3904 goes to -ve lead of the caps E3906 goes to +ve lead. Also make a loop for motor lead (E3906 loop) |
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9. bends the leads like that, it's the bug's right brain
The leads of left brain bend one way, and the leads of right brain bend the other way. E3904 goes to -ve lead of the caps
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10. prepare the motor and its holder
Use copper wires to pinch through the motor/holder, clamp the holder's
legs onto the wires if you want, glue it perhaps.
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11. attach the copper-wires to the motors and capacitor simply
looping to the +ve lead. Have to use lots of solder and/or glue to fasten
it
(wires for solar-panel should be solder first) |
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12. strip the coating of the capacitor, it's more cyber-look this way |
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13. solder the motor leads to its brain
left motor blue wire go to E3906 loop of the left brain left motor red wire go to C3904 loop of left brain right motor blue wire go to C3904 loop
of the right brain
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14. solder the left brain, then the right brain
E3904 goes to -ve lead of the caps
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15. solder the left-eye (FLED), then the right-eye as shown |
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16. finally the solar panel
solder the leads and
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17. This little Santa's helper : small C-clamp helps me to clamp down
the wires, but I think any small clamp can do the trick.
solder the copper wires first onto the +ve & -ve pads apply glue/epoxy onto the wires(in this case, brown & white)/solar panel, leave them overnight (just to be sure), and carefully remove the C-clamp |
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18. bend the + ve lead down as the front support
put on the shoes (heat-shrink tubing) and you're done !!
See, it's not that hard !! |
| I use " low temp" method to solder the wires on.
1. Heat up the soldering iron first until it can melt down the
solder
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| Tutorial
on making the Homing Signal :
Solar-powered light flashing beacon |
Tutorial
on making the bicore Head :
Light Tracking Bicore Head |
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